Retsina Redemption: Why the "Bad Boy" of Greek Wine is Actually the Ultimate Botanical White
If you mention Retsina to a certain generation of wine drinkers, you will likely see them wince.
For decades, this unique Greek wine suffered from a terrible reputation. It was the stuff of cheap backpacker vacations—mass-produced in the 1970s using bad grapes and an overdose of synthetic flavoring to mask the poor quality. It famously earned the nickname "Turpentine in a glass," and for a long time, it was relegated to the bottom shelf of the wine world.
But if you write off Retsina based on a bad memory from twenty years ago (or a rumor you heard), you are making a mistake. You are missing out on one of the most exciting, savory, and complex comebacks in modern viticulture.
Today, a new wave of low-intervention winemakers has reclaimed this ancient tradition. They are treating Retsina wine not as a cheap gimmick, but as a serious, "botanical" wine that offers flavors you simply cannot find anywhere else.
At Sun & Soil, we specialize in the wines of the Ancient World, and there is perhaps no wine more "Ancient" than this.
The History
In the Ancient World (around 3,000 years ago), glass bottles and corks did not exist. Wine was stored in clay amphoras. The problem? Clay is porous. If you left wine in an unsealed pot, it would eventually oxidize and turn to vinegar.
To seal the pots, the Ancient Greeks used the only sealant they had in abundance: Aleppo Pine resin (Pinus halepensis). They smeared the sticky pitch over the mouths and interiors of the amphoras to make them airtight. Over time, the wine inside naturally absorbed the distinct, herbal aroma of the pine.
The Greeks grew to love this flavor. It became the taste of preservation, of stability, and of the harvest itself. Even after the Romans popularized barrels and later civilizations invented glass, the Greeks continued adding resin—not because they had to, but because they wanted to. It became known as Ritinitis Oinos (Resinated Wine), a tradition that has survived for four millennia.
How Retsina Lost Its Way
If the history is so noble, why is the reputation so bad?
The damage was done in the mid-20th century. As tourism to Greece exploded in the 1960s, demand for Retsina skyrocketed. Industrial wineries began pumping out massive quantities to feed the tavernas in Athens and the islands.
They used the worst grapes available (often Savatiano grown for high yields rather than flavor) and, to hide the flaws of the tasteless wine, they overdosed it with cheap, aggressive resin. The result was the harsh, chemical-tasting liquid that haunted tourists for decades.
This mass-market version is what most people think of when they hear the word "Retsina." But comparing that to modern Retsina is like comparing a gas station slushie to a craft cocktail.
The Modern Renaissance
The best way to understand modern, high-quality Retsina is to think of it like Gin or Vermouth.
We love Gin because it is a neutral spirit infused with botanicals (juniper, coriander, citrus). We love Vermouth because it is wine infused with wormwood and herbs. Retsina is simply white wine infused with a botanical: pine resin.
The "New Wave" of Retsina producers—like the Kioutsoukis family of Kamara Estate in Northern Greece—are applying fine winemaking standards to this style:
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High-Quality Grapes: They use premium, low-yield Roditis or Assyrtiko grapes that would make excellent wine even without the resin.
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The "Teabag" Method: Instead of chemically bonding resin to the wine, they place small cloth bags of high-quality fresh resin into the tank during fermentation. It is a subtle infusion—like steeping tea—that adds a delicate top note rather than a sledgehammer of flavor.
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Low Intervention: Many modern Retsinas are also natural wines—unfiltered, fermented with wild yeasts, and made with minimal sulfur. This preserves the texture and life of the wine.
What Does Good Retsina Actually Taste Like?
When made correctly, Retsina is not overwhelming. It is vibrant, savory, and incredibly refreshing.
The specific resin used, Aleppo Pine, is high in terpenes—the same aromatic compounds found in citrus peel and hops (used in IPA beers).
Instead of "cleaning fluid," expect a complex profile:
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The Nose: Fresh rosemary, sage, eucalyptus, and a walk through a Mediterranean forest.
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The Palate: Zesty lemon peel, lime, ginger, and white pepper.
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The Finish: A crisp, bitter-clean herbal note that scrubs the palate.
It is a savory white wine that behaves almost like a dry cider, a sour beer, or a Gin & Tonic. It wakes up your palate in a way that plain Chardonnay never could.
The "Killer App": Why You Need Retsina for Food
This is the number one reason sommeliers are putting Retsina back on wine lists: It pairs with food that kills other wines.
Greek and Mediterranean cuisines are full of "wine killers"—ingredients that make standard dry wines taste flat, metallic, or flabby. These include garlic, artichokes, vinegar-heavy salads, fried fish, and yogurt (tzatziki).
Retsina, however, thrives here.
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Fried Calamari & Fish: The herbal pine note cuts through the grease like a knife, acting as a palate cleanser between bites.
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Garlic & Dips: The intensity of the resin stands up to the pungency of raw garlic (skordalia) or tzatziki.
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Spicy Food: Surprisingly, the gingery spice of Retsina makes it a brilliant pairing for Thai or Indian curries. The herbal notes harmonize with lemongrass and galangal.
How to Drink Retsina (And The Retsina Spritz)
Temperature is key. Retsina should be served very cold—around 45°F (7°C). If it is too warm, the herbal notes can become too dominant.
Glassware: You don’t need a fancy oversized bowl. A standard white wine glass or even a casual tumbler works perfectly. Retsina is a social, unpretentious wine.
The "Retsina & Tonic": Because of its botanical profile, Retsina makes an incredible cocktail base.
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3 oz Modern Retsina
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2 oz High-quality Tonic Water
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Garnish with a slice of lemon and a sprig of rosemary. It is lower ABV than a Gin & Tonic, but just as refreshing.
Bottle Spotlight: Kamara Traditional Retsina
If you are ready to taste the redemption yourself, we have curated the perfect entry point.
Kamara Traditional Retsina From the Thessaloniki region in Northern Greece, this is Retsina as it was meant to be. Produced by the Kioutsoukis family, this is a natural wine, fermented on wild yeasts with fresh resin collected from the mountains surrounding the vineyard.
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The Difference: Unlike industrial versions, this wine is cloudy, textured, and bursting with energy.
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The Taste: You get the classic pine note, but it’s wrapped in flavors of pear, ginger, and summer herbs. It feels alive.
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The Verdict: This isn't the Retsina of the past; it's a vibrant, living wine that connects you directly to the history of the Ancient World.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is Retsina high in alcohol? No. Most Retsinas are standard table wines, usually ranging from 11% to 12.5% ABV. They are light and easy to drink.
Does Retsina go bad? Like any white wine, an open bottle will last 2-4 days in the fridge. However, because of the resin (a natural preservative!), Retsina is often slightly more resistant to oxidation than a delicate Pinot Grigio.
Is it safe to drink pine resin? Yes. The resin used is specifically from the Pinus halepensis (Aleppo Pine). It is a natural food-grade ingredient that has been used in Greek medicine and winemaking for thousands of years.
Conclusion
The wine world is full of "same-old" flavors. If you are bored with the usual suspects, Retsina offers an adventure. It is a time capsule from 4,000 years ago, refined for the modern palate.
Don't let the stereotypes stop you. Grab a bottle, fry up some salty food, and experience the most misunderstood—and delicious—wine in history.
At Sun & Soil, we specialize in finding these small-batch, low-intervention producers who respect this legacy. When you open a bottle of Greek wine from our collection, you aren't just tasting fruit; you are tasting the sun, the stone, and the soul of the Mediterranean.
